Differences

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--- en:manuals:service-notes-for-mitail [2024/10/19 15:16] – [Installing the Control Board] darkgrue
+++ en:manuals:service-notes-for-mitail [2024/11/11 18:02] (current) – [Introduction] darkgrue
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ===== Introduction =====
-These instructions do not purport to cover all details or variations of the product and do not claim to provide for every possible contingency in connection with installation, operation, or maintenance. Self-repairs performed by the customer may lead to damage or loss of your product. Should further information be desired or should particular problems arise which are not covered sufficiently or if repair services are desired, please contact The Tail Company (contact@thetailcompany.com).
+These instructions do not purport to cover all details or variations of the product and do not claim to provide for every possible contingency in connection with installation, operation, or maintenance. Self-repairs performed by the customer may lead to damage or loss of your product. Should further information be desired or should particular problems arise which are not covered sufficiently or if repair services are desired, please contact The Tail Company ([[contact@thetailcompany.com]]).
 For the purposes of this manual, “left” and “right” references will refer to the MiTail’s orientation when worn on the body, relative to the wearer. So, the “left” side is the side of the MiTail on the wearer’s left.
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 Early production issues with the power button and/or USB-C connector mechanically separating from the control board were corrected with hot glue to protect the connector.
-**Note: Assembly of the control board can be made easier by reaming out the case hole for the button to be slightly larger. This can help prevent the button from being broken off the board and requiring a full board replacement.**
+<WRAP round important 90%>
+Assembly of the control board can be made easier by reaming out the case hole for the button to be slightly larger. This can help prevent the button from being broken off the board and requiring a full board replacement.
+</WRAP>
 Check for plastic swarf on the interior of the case edge around the power button from post-manufacturing rework that may interfere with installation of the control board.
@@ Line 21: / Line 23: @@
 {{ :en:manuals:board_squeeze.jpg?nolink&600 |}}
-Note when reassembling the case halves, that there is a slot for engaging the PCB board on the other half of the case as well. This will sometimes keep the halves from mating completely, and should not be forced. Offsetting the case forward or backwards from the belt attachment lug and seating that end first may assist in getting the PCB to seat correctly in the case slot. Check for swarf in the pcb slot, or hotglue traces on the pcb, if getting it to seat completely is proving hard.
+<WRAP round tip 90%>
+When reassembling the case halves, pay close attention that there is a slot for engaging the PCB board on the other half of the case as well. This will sometimes keep the halves from mating completely, and should not be forced. Offsetting the case forward or backwards from the belt attachment lug and seating that end first may assist in getting the PCB to seat correctly in the case slot. Check for swarf in the PCB slot, or hot glue traces on the PCB, if getting it to seat completely is proving hard.
+</WRAP>
 ===== Installing Batteries =====
@@ Line 35: / Line 39: @@
 The plugs can be difficult to remove from the board. It’s suggested to pull out and slightly down towards the board (somewhat of a slight rolling motion) helps the plugs release better, instead of pulling straight back.
-NOTE TO HARDWARE HACKERS: If you ever end up sourcing your own internal batteries, be aware that, although the JST-PH 2.0 connectors used on the batteries and across industry are polarized, the polarity that any one battery is set up for is EXTREMELY RANDOM. Positive and negative should be correctly indicated by red and black wires, but the position of the wires in the connector may not be correct for the MiTail (or whatever device you plan on using the battery in), because there's actually no real standard. Plugging in the battery with the polarity reversed can, depending on a lot of factors, be quite bad for the device and/or battery.
+The foam pad faces towards the other battery, but it's not structurally critical. Both batteries are constrained fully in the slots in the ABS case (and care should be taken not to crush the battery ends or wires when closing the case), and won't come in contact with each other or the metal rod around the spine.
+<WRAP round important 90%>
+Be aware that, although the JST-PH 2.0 connectors used on the batteries and across industry are polarized, the polarity that any one battery is set up for is EXTREMELY RANDOM. Positive and negative should be correctly indicated by red and black wires, but the position of the wires in the connector may not be correct for the MiTail (or whatever device you plan on using the battery in), because there's actually no real standard. Plugging in the battery with the polarity reversed can, depending on a lot of factors, be quite bad for the device and/or battery.
+</WRAP>
 ===== Testing Servos =====
@@ Line 45: / Line 54: @@
 {{ :en:manuals:servo_tester.png?nolink&600 |}}
-Long-term testing can be performed with Casual Mode set with a short intra-move delay, to try to replicate irregular problems. [Note: the Android CRUMPET application has a timer that will disable Casual Mode after 25 minutes.]
+<WRAP round tip 90%>
+Long-term testing can be performed with Casual Mode set with a short intra-move delay, to try to replicate irregular problems.
+</WRAP>
 ===== Installing Servos =====
@@ Line 69: / Line 81: @@
 Avoid connecting the servos to the LED pins on the end of the header block. These pins are reserved for the Glow Tip LEDs.
+<WRAP round tip 90%>
 Before removing the servo cables, it’s recommended to mark the Servo 2 cable (closest to the PCB) with a black marker stripe for reference, as it’s easy for the cables to get confused and difficult to trace the cables when they are bundled.
+</WRAP>
 If a fresh servo is being installed, you will first need to modify the replacement servo to remove the mounting tab furthest from the servo shaft (so that it can fit into the case). Remove the pulley from the old servo, dismount the old servo and mount the new servo in it's place, and reattach it to the new servo, making sure that the new one is in the correct starting position. To do this correctly, first power up the PCB with the new servo attached directly to the board. That will center or "home" the servo before you reattach the pulley. Secondly, make sure the pulley is in the following "ten minutes to the hour" position; the topmost screw head will also align with the servo mount rib below it (note that the servo splines may not line up perfectly and may land a tooth to the left or the right slightly or a particular trail might bias more towards the center screw):
@@ Line 85: / Line 99: @@
 MiTail requires a USB Power Delivery (USB PD) capable charging adapter. PD charging is only possible using a USB-C to USB-C cable and a USB PD chargers together. Adapters with USB-A output, even with a USB-A to USB-C cable will **NOT** charge a MiTail. The adapter should provide at least 9V - almost all PD adapters can. If the adapters’ rated power is less than 24W, charging will take around 3 hours.
+<WRAP round tip 90%>
 If the MiTail red LED is not "breathing" red, it is not charging!
+</WRAP>
 |  {{ :en:manuals:usb-a_to_usb-c.jpg?nolink&400 |}}  |  {{ :en:manuals:usb-c_to_usb-c.jpg?nolink&400 |}}  |
-|  This will **NOT** charge a MiTail (but will charge an EarGear 2).\\ Even though this is a PD charger, it's using a USB-A to USB-C cable,\\ and the tail and charger can't negotiate.  |  This will charge a MiTail AND an EarGear 2.\\ This is a PD charger, with a USB-C to USB-C cable.  |
+|  This will **NOT** charge a MiTail (but will charge an EarGear 2).\\ Even though this is a PD charger, it's using a USB-A to USB-C cable,\\ and the tail and charger can't negotiate.  |  This **WILL** charge a MiTail AND an EarGear 2.\\ This is a PD charger, with a USB-C to USB-C cable.  |
 ===== Indicator Lights =====
-Red LED: Slow breathing = tail is charging (when connected to USB PD power).
+The following visual indicators are presented by the firmware on the board:
-Red LED: Solid on = charge complete (when connected to USB PD power).
-Blue LED: Blinking = ready to connect.
+  * Red LED: Slow breathing = tail is charging (when connected to USB PD power).
-Blue LED: ON = MiTail is connected.
+  * Red LED: Solid on = charge complete (when connected to USB PD power).
-Green LED: ON = USB power is charging batteries. Visible only on the PCB.
+  * Blue LED: Blinking = ready to connect.
+  * Blue LED: ON = MiTail is connected.
-Please make sure the PCB has the latest firmware that can be flashed using the apps.
+  * Green LED: ON = USB power is charging batteries. Visible only on the PCB.
-===== Function Check =====
+Please make sure the PCB has the latest firmware. Firmware may be updated from The Tail Company app, support Python utility, or directly (e.g. using PlatformIO).
-The MiTail should be checked with the tail oriented as if hanging from the belt mount. Testing the tail with it horizontal will cause the tail to move unpredictably. Upside-down tails (with the black vinyl-coated pull cables towards the floor) won't appear to work at all.
+===== Board-level Repairs and Modifications =====
-Test fast and slow moves. Tail should move **symmetrically** and **smoothly**.
+The tail PCB uses small surface-mounted components, and is not generally considered a repairable unit (replacements are available for order from The Tail Company). Users who are experienced with surface-mount board rework may attempt repair at their own risk, but the Tail Company is unable to provide specific assistance with this.
-If a Glow Tip is present, test that the tip lights up and animates correctly.
+The most likely repair would be to replace the USB connector or tactile switch, which are reinforced with hot glue. Removal of the hot glue is possible, but requires care to prevent components from being removed from the board, along with the glue. The best method to remove the hot glue is high-concentration Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), also known as rubbing alcohol. Soak a Q-Tip in rubbing alcohol, and working your way from the edges in, brush the dried glue gently with the Q-Tip. As the alcohol weakens the adhesive, lift the edge and peel the hot glue away from the board surface, reapplying the alcohol as resistance is met from the glue.
-Test that the tail charges and indicates charging and end-of-charge correctly.
+===== Function Check =====
+The MiTail should be checked with the tail oriented as if hanging from the belt mount. Testing the tail with it horizontal will cause the tail to move unpredictably. Upside-down tails (with the black vinyl-coated pull cables towards the floor) won't appear to work at all.
+  * Test fast and slow moves. Tail should move **symmetrically** and **smoothly**.
+  * If a Glow Tip is present, test that the tip lights up and animates correctly.
+  * Test that the tail charges and indicates charging and end-of-charge correctly.
-== Copyright 2023 © The Mechanical Tail Company Limited contact@thetailcompany.com. All Rights Reserved. ==
+== Copyright 2023-2024 © The Mechanical Tail Company Limited contact@thetailcompany.com. All Rights Reserved. ==